Like most sewers, I adored the fold-back contrast on Gertie's Butterick 6094 Dress Pattern. I HAD to make one.
I cut out all of the pieces for the straight skirt version and when it came time to check the tissue fit, I could tell instantly that this wouldn't work for me. The front bodice pieces are supposed to meet the waist band just under the bust. (See line drawing)
Well the piece didn't even come to under my bust point! Troubles I suppose of being a 12G (US 34G). I also wasn't keen on the strange lining of just the fold back and then a facing (the rest of the dress is unlined for some reason)... So rather than deal with a whole bunch of drafting and fitting, I decided I would create my own version using New Look 6184 which I have made before here.
I opted for the high neckline of View E this time to balance out the low fold back.
I looked at the shape of the Butterick 6094 back pieces and drafted my own to go with New Look 6184.
I made the shell of the dress in black panama suiting, and FULLY lined this bad boy in a harlot red satin. I changed the vent to a split, so there are peeks of the red there too. Finished with two self-covered buttons and an invisible zipper.
I absolutely LOVE the way this dress turned out. It fits like a dream. I used a size 14, and graded out the hips and bust at the peaks of each for a little wiggle room.
See pics below:
Please feel free to comment, share and pin!